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High Horsepower Grader-Clearing Box Blade
High Horsepower Grader Clearing Box Blade Box Scraper for large category II & III tractors

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High Horsepower Grader/Clearing Box Blade

Our High Horsepower Grading or Clearing Box Blade is the largest box blade we build. Built from over a ton of solid steel, and fabricated from laser precision tools this is the best box blade on the market. The entire frame of the box blade is built from 1/2" thick steel, except for the main tube (3/8") and the brace that connects the hitch to the moldboard (also 3/8"). The ripper shanks are made in America, unlike other shanks, measuring 1" thick and weighing 32 lbs. each. For MAX wear resistance, extra plates of steel are welded to the leading edge of ALL EA box blades.

  • Solid, laser cut, A572 steel construction (1/2" material with 3/8" top brace and tube).
  • Dual 3/8" back plates for a total of 3/4" thick back.
  • 1" thick ripper shanks weigh 32 pounds each.
  • 44" deep with a 30" tall back.
  • 6"x6"x3/8" tube for main beam.
  • Category II & III quick hitch compatible.
  • Available in 78", 90", 96", 108", and 120" widths.
  • Approx. shipping weight for 96" is 2,300 pounds/120" is 2,900.
  • Rated for 180 HP 4x4 tractors or 220 HP 2WDs.
  • Proudly Made in the USA.
  • Everything Attachments Product Warranty

American Made Attachment

Everything Attachments High Horsepower Grader/Clearing Box Blade for large category II & III tractors. Shipping not included.

Item# Item Name Our Price Qty Add
ETA-HHP-GCBB-78 78 Inch High Horsepower Grader-Clearing Box Blade
ETA-HHP-GCBB-90 90 Inch High Horsepower Grader-Clearing Box Blade
ETA-HHP-GCBB-96 96 Inch High Horsepower Grader-Clearing Box Blade
ETA-HHP-GCBB-108 108 Inch High Horsepower Grader-Clearing Box Blade
ETA-HHP-GCBB-120 120 Inch High Horsepower Grader-Clearing Box Blade
Check the items you wish to purchase, then click

Video Transcription:

Video 1:
Hi, I'm Ted from Everything Attachments. We're today with our largest box blade that we've built today, we're calling it our land clearing and grading blade because that's pretty much what it's gonna be used for.

This particular blade is an 8 foot blade, 96 inches and it's going to Louisiana to build a pond out there with a 135 horsepower tractor. Somewhere about 95 horsepower is probably about the minimum size tractor that you're gonna use with this size of blade. We are making it in a little bit narrower width. We're gonna start with a 78, a 90, a 96, which is what this is, 8 feet, a 108 and a 120, which is 10 feet.

So, we're getting ready to do a video with this one with a 105 horsepower that Harry Gant has. It's a T09E, but I've turned up the horsepower, it's got a 105 on the VTO, four wheel drive with a loader. Should make a good video, it'll handle this weight with no problem, but this is almost 2300 lbs in an 8 foot blade. People wanted a heavier blade, so we went all the way, and then we're gonna work our way back towards the regular size blades with a moldboard and stuff that will float. On a clearing blade, where you're just wanting to be able to push massive amounts of dirt, trees and everything around, you really can't put a floating tailgate on it because it just isn't strong enough to take a 200 horsepower tractor. This comes in only a category two and a category three hitch, they will work with the quick hitches. If you get a category three quick hitch, you're gonna need to make sure that you get the wide version, the 38 inch wide version because that's what this is set on.

The moldboards are 30 inches high, as you can see it comes up pretty far here. And the reason we made them 30 inches is because we can cut on either five foot wide sheets of steel or six foot. If we only have a five in stock at the time, then we can still get two without any waste and it works out well for us.

These are three-eighths in thickness, each one of these moldboards on an 8 foot blade weighs 300 lbs. So it takes three men to put this into the press brake and get these bins done. Both moldboards are identical, everything is indexed through it. The main brace here, which is about nine inches, about four inches which makes an L, comes all the way through the moldboard, wraps around the front six-by-six three-eighths thick tube, and then makes it for your pin connection.

Now that's the strongest way of doing it. The way we put it together, we put this through both moldboards, tack it, and then we slide the six inch tube through the hole in the side to get everything to line up, so we can get everything ready to build. And this is a half inch side. Some people say, "Why don't you put a one inch on a box blade this big?" Well, it just doesn't need to be for strength, because we have put a half inch, moon shaped gusset in here. You've got gusseting coming back here, half inch thick, which is actually for wearing. And you've got a six inch here of cantilever, which gives it some strength, you've got all these center braces. Now, as we go wider than eight feet you will see another brace come from the front to the back. But you've also got about four, five inches back here, where the moldboards come apart, for their shape and that gives you some cantilever here. So, we don't think it needs any more side thickness because it has plenty of strength and anything past the weight that we're at now, at almost 2300 lbs, it's just gonna be dead weight.

So, we're trying to build it as strong as we can, and I would say as light as we can, but that's not where we've ended up at 2300 lbs. We've cut slots through the middle of the moldboard here, we've inserted a piece, they're welded on both sides, it connects the moldboard in the middle, to make it really rigid, where it's not trying to move around. We will eventually make some moldboards that are floating, but on a box blade that's meant for 200 horsepower, you just can't use a floating moldboard because it's too weak. You're gonna bend it and when you go to shearing off trees and so forth, it's just too much for them.

Now, the cutting edges that are on this, we order it special from Valk Cutting Edges, it's a US made company, it's what goes on all of our box blades, regardless of which one you buy, we use a US made blade. But these are called a Viper blade. They're five-eighths thick and they're eight inches tall. What we normally use is either three-eighths or half inch thick, six inches tall. And what we use is a heat treated, a case hardened heat treated blade, which is what industry standard is and according to Valk, there's no other company that's making a box blade that's using the Viper blades, which are normally used on road construction, mining equipment and in quarries and stuff, which are fully heat treated, they're hardened all the way through. They're guaranteed not to break. They're twice as expensive as a normal cutting edge, and even more than an imported edge. So, they're a great edge, and they should be able to shear things off, take all the abuse, no problem.

Turning around to the back of this, and I hope you can see everything okay, because we didn't really want to move it, it's just so heavy, you can see these big eight inch thick blades, or eight inch tall blades, five-eighths thick, grade eight bolts through them. You can see where we put part of... It's longer than this on the other side, but we put part of the main brace, coming back through, welded on both sides, you can see the inserts here, where they come through the moldboard and just make everything more rigid. You know, being 30 inches high, so you've got a ton of clearing area here. You've also got a big, large pocket here to start helping you build up the dirt that you're pushing backwards and then, this blade, being three-eighths thick, it shouldn't be able, you know, no matter what you push on, wood or something like that, trees, it should be able to take the load and this is the exact same shape as what the front is, so you're able to do it in both directions with good grading.

We're using a one inch thick shank, we'd looked to try to buy ripper shanks from different companies, no one offered what we wanted, so we're simply burning these out of a plate of one inch with a high yield strength. And then we're welding on, they're not just replaceable, because you shouldn't have to do it much. The tips are welded on but it's an AR material, which is abrasion resistant, 400, so it has a yield strength of over 400,000 lbs, and then it has abrasion resistance in it, which is a lot of carbon.

So, you've got a really strong ripper shank and it's, if I said four inches, I meant to say it's five inches from front to back, one inch thick, they're weighing about 33 lbs apiece with the tip on them. And so, it just keeps adding up into more and more weight. Since the back of this is 30 inches, it makes the front of the hitch actually look small on this. But it's set in the right position, so when you're able to hold yards of dirt and be dragging it from wherever you are, save for the guy in Louisiana that's building a pond, this particular eight foot box blade would probably hold about, and I haven't done the exact cubic feet, but it's probably a little over three yards of dirt. It's what he's gonna be able to carry out at a time. So he's gonna have to be able to pick it up quite a bit to get it over the load, so we've set the hitch in the right position so even a large tractor will be able to pick it up really high. It is category two and category three, quick attach acceptable, this is the proper dimensions. If you're using a category three quick attach you need to make sure you get the large one, that's 38 inches wide.

Now, these ripper shanks are being held in by a category one toppling pin and they have a standard lynch pin like goes on the end of your draw board now, to hold them in. If you're in a lot of brush and stuff, you know you've lost lynch pins before. You might, would wanna, once you've found the magic spot of where you wanna be ripping, you might would wanna replace that with a three-eighths bolt with a lock nut, or a lock washer in a nut. And if you'll notice, this end shank is tilted to the side for two reasons. One, we've got a brace in here to give all of this some stability, but also we wanted to get this tip as close to the edge here, so we can do some serious digging and loosen this ground up to let this go deep, so you can get as much out as possible at a time. It's a lot of trouble. Every piece in this side piece is different than any of the others, and every piece is different, left and right, it's a lot of work to make. But we wanted to get this ripper shank over here to the side, and that's why it's leaning like that.

And we wanted you to... We could have done it maybe, but you wouldn't have been able to get in there and change it easily, with your hands. So, we just went to the extra trouble to do that. It's got a three-eighths thick brace, it goes all the way to the back, all of the piece, this front piece here, which gets to be about eight inches thick in the back with a four inch bend, it goes all the way through both moldboards and it's welded on the front side and the back side, we'll get you some pictures of that. The main brace in here for your back brace, is indexed right here, it's welded in front, back, side, even in the plugs, here.

This box blade should be able to stand a 220 horsepower two wheel drive without any problem, a 180 four wheel drive. We're gonna try it out on a 240 horsepower, four wheel drive tractor, that's dual wheels weighing 25,000 lbs. We'll probably build a ten-footer for that, because that's what it's gonna take to get close to the rear wheels. But we don't see any reason why, with this kind of weight, and the materials we're using, that this won't work just fine.

So, at Everything Attachments we're gonna be adding to our box blade line continually. We've kind of left a huge gap from where we stopped to this, because there's a whole lot in between and we're trying to fill the gap right now with some folding tailgates, a little bit heavier than what we've got and some different options. But this blade is just a monster of a blade and at the weight it is, for what it's for, for big four wheel drive tractors and clearing and grading, something that'll hold yards of dirt and get it out of the way, we're really proud to have one of the biggest box blades in the industry.

And where a lot of these are sold, I think are in the Midwest and down East, but, and I'm not sure about how big the market is, but I guess we'll figure it out.

Give us a call or an email at Everything Attachments and we'll be happy to help you.

Video 2:
Hi, I'm Ted from Everything Attachments, and we're here to show you how to use the United H.H.D. Box Blade. As you can tell, this one's well used. It's mine. I keep it at home all the time. It's a tool I'd never be without because it's just good for almost everything it seems like. You've got your ripper shanks here that are adjustable. They're in their highest position now. They do have replaceable points. One of the most important things about a box blade, if you just want to level dirt or gravel, it isn't really going to matter. But if you actually want to cut a ditch or move some dirt, this curved cutting edge is very important.

A lot of the cheap blades just have a flat piece of steel, and there's about 10 times the price difference in a flat piece of steel and in this hard and curved edge here. So that curved edge is just essential to be able to actually cut the dirt and fill your box blade up with the dirt that you want to move to another area. So loose stuff you can move with a flat edge, but that's about all they're good for. I recommend always getting one with a curved edge, good replaceable tips, with a forward shank. So we're going to knock down this pile of dirt, spread it out real quick, and then we're going to angle our drawbar arms really steep, show you how you can cut a ditch for drainage.

Adjusting the top link is going to have a big effect on whether it's digging in or floating over the top when you're backing up and pulling forward. So right there was a low spot already, just got filled in. Always try to get a box blade or as many implements as you can with a clevis hitch instead of a pin hitch. It's going to be twice as strong and be easier to hook up on your drawbar arms. So with that curved edge, it cuts right into the dirt, collects a big pile of it, and you're able to spread it like you want to.

So unlike a cheap box blade that doesn't have replaceable ripper shanks or replaceable edges, when they're worn out, you basically throw away your whole tool, where this one can be continually rebuilt for years and years of use. So do some really deep ripper action. We're going to shorten this top link up. Wet down, pin up, or pick up. I'll let it back down. So we're tilting up the back of this blade, and we're angling these teeth down where it's really going to get its most ripping effect.

If you're doing it -- if you need to box blade on top of grass without the rippers, you're not going to do anything. Here all the way one direction as far as we can -- lift up just a little bit -- so that we can cut a ditch or a drainage way or just an angle on the side of the road. All right. Hey, Kevin. Get in this direction here and go that way a little bit. So now with the rippers fully down and with a lot of angle on it, you can see how he's able to cut a ditch. Then by the time he turns around and comes back with another angle on it, or does this twice and puts another angle, you could really have a big ditch.

So if you've got drainage problems and you need it to go, this is the way to do it. So you can have a one-sided ditch or a big V ditch if you decide to come back down at the other direction. All right. So a little bit of cleanup work, and you have a perfect ditch and get rid of that water that's been standing. So now we're going to level it back out and cover up this ditch, just so I won't have to mow over it later. Now we put our ripper teeth back up. We're smoothing our ditch back out that we cut. We're just going to clean this area up here where we can plant some grass on it.

Pushing backwards with that back edge is probably one of the best and most important things to be able to do well with a box blade. Having that curved cutting edge on the back is just a must to really be able to do anything besides scrape over it. So how to use a box blade, even though it's a simple device, it's probably one of the most asked questions I get on a daily basis. So you can see in less than 15 minutes, we've leveled that big pile of dirt. We've cut a ditch if you needed a drain line.

We've done some ripping if you were going to move a lot of hard dirt where you could rip it up and move it. We've totally smoothed it back out. So that is the most universal tool that I know of, is a box blade. We're fixing to hook to some pallet forts next. The box blade is always your best tool to have on the backs to give you a little counter weight.

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