Hi, I'm Ted from Everything Attachments. And we're here today with our version two of our land leveler. Our land leveler has been a great seller, and we've had absolutely no problems out of it. But there's always room for improvement on everything, and we try to keep our attachments at the top of the line and give you everything that you need, as we can think of things that just simply work better. We've always had the Category 1 and 2 step pin here where you can hook up to either hitch, it is quick attach, ready for the Category 1 or Category 2.

And one of the things that we do, we really like, and we did this on our other land leveler, when we finally did add the scarifier teeth, the rippers in front of this. Because for so many years we built it without them, and I'd never seen with it. A lot of the other companies always had them, but there's kind of a reason for that, all the other companies, the Land Pride, the Woods, the other ones I've looked at, their grader blades are on a five degree grade, it barely you can tell they're angled, ours are only 10, which causes some problems. It simply makes you have to make a much longer slide on it which is more expansive, and that's fine because we'll go around a corner before we cut a corner just save money. And we also don't put the ripper shanks through the tube which is easy tear like a lot of them do, versus putting them out on the backside of the tube. Now that's a three-by-three tube, that's three eighths of an inch thick, so that's as think of a three inch tube as you can buy.

And then the way we make our mounts behind here is much, much stronger and much rigider than putting the holes through the four-by-four like we do on our compact box blades for very low horse power tractors. So far and as soon as I say this, this will bite us, but so far out of all the land levelers that we've sold we've never had one bend or skewed that we know of, and partially because of the way we build our...inform the piece of metal that the actual cutting edge goes on. Currently we're using build manufacturing, super tough ripper shanks, and you know I always say I try to use American made goods, and sometimes it's tough between them being late getting them to us and so forth, so we really work hard at trying to keep American made attachments for these implements, we're using valcke, American-made cutting edges.

And what we've done to this, for one of the improvements is we've raised this tube one inch, so when you're top height, you're just barely touching on the edge of the ground there. If you want it out of the way you can simply turn them upside down, but you have three hole adjustments in it, so you can go down another three and a half inches, that's more than you should be reaping with a land plane because you don't want to really loosen up the ground a whole lot. So the difference between a 5 degree angle on these blades versus a 10, it's kind of like you have a good steak and a good steak knife. And if you take the knife and just try to push it through the steak, it may not go so well. But while you're pushing, if you can push the knife blade forwards, then it will go right down into it. So in this 10 degree grade, it's kind of like using a knife while sliding it, so it really does cut well, so there's a lot less need for these ripper shanks with 10 degrees on them, than there is 5. But we do offer it with both ways for severe conditions to have the ripper shanks in front. We especially do all the clevis hitches and the panes to make it strong. Because with the larger tractor have yet some things that almost threw me into the windshield, this still didn't cause any damage to our land leveler.

Okay. So, to make our attachments we tab and tang everything, which means we just cut a square hole that's laser cut, so this is put in there, always the same place every time. We put a welded steel, three eighth stick brace right here to give it full strength. We index the height of the distance back on our tubes with different things that are bent and put into place. And as you can see with our scarifier holders here, the way they come in behind the tube instead of through the tube, and then they have the little hole right here to let the sediment come out, the water and everything drain, just makes everything work better. And you can see just how much angle is actually on this cutting edges here, and that's what's going to give you your cutting effect, to be able to cut the...it'll cut through soft stone and stuff like that, any kind of gravel, it won't care how packed it is. With that kind of angle it dissolves right through it, we never have any problems.

This piece is formed out of one piece a quarter inch, it kind of looks like a spider when it comes out of the laser, and then we fold all these tabs in to make a complete unit. And we've looked at a lot of units, and I think we're the only company out there, we've looked at some good companies and they simply only weld on one side of everything, and use a lot of stitch welding. We use no stitch welding basically, and we double-side weld everything we can get to. So we're just thinking you know, we're trying to make life-time implements, not part-time implements, and something that can sit in the field, rust for 50 years if you want to, and your grandkids will still be able to drag it out and hook it to the tractor and it's still gonna be good.

So we used to use a welded wear pad here, and it was a quarter of an inch thick. So we never had anybody that I know of that really wore through it, but I think we've maybe missed some sales by not having the option of being able to replace that simply with bolts. So we put a three eighths thick wear strip on the bottom, countersunk the holes, put the bolts on it where you can order a replacement if you wear it out. There's a lot of roads down in Florida where there's neighborhoods that have to be kept up all the time, and they're in an abrasive area. And if you're in a really abrasive granite and stuff, and you use it all the time, you are gonna wear those out eventually, so now you can just replace it with a few bolts.

So with adding that, making that thicker what we've done is we've lowered our cutting edges an extra quarter of an inch more than it was to start with just to give you a little more aggressive cut, and we gave you that thick pad for wear. We've made this huge, long skid to take this 10 degree-angled blades, so the more surface area you have here the smoother and leveler your plane is gonna be when you go up and down your driveway, parking lots or whatever it is you're doing.

So we looked at a lot of them, specifically the Land Pride, and we liked one of the options which was, they have holes on the back and so their cutting edges are adjustable, they'll go up and down. And so we started going towards that direction until we realized a couple of things. What they also do, they're able to take the center piece, turn it the other direction, move the blades to the other side. But a land leveler the way they're built they don't necessarily transfer the dirt one direction, it pretty much filters over. And I didn't want to put just an angle iron there which is a much, much smaller piece, we burned that piece on the laser, and if you saw it in the flat it's a very irregular looking shape until we put the press sprike to it. And we have a lot more area back here, and it's not the angle that we would wanna put a blade on. So the whole process of trying to make it to be able to move up and down, and try to be able to reverse it just makes too many weak spots, it changes the angles different in different areas that we didn't wanna do. So we've taken what has been the best land leveler that I know of and just made it better and not tried to go back to what some of the other companies have been doing which I don't like.

This being three eighths thick, which's thicker than any of the pieces that we found, plus there's about twice as much material there, we've got the angles very aggressive on these edges, the way we want them. And with that 10 degrees it just slices through the gravel and the crowns of the roads, so people a lot of times will ask, "How do I put a crown in a rode?" We'll, most people are using the land leveler to take out the crown in the road, a crown will always occur when you drive. So some people may want to put a little bit of angle on the whole road if they've got a lot of water coming down the bank and it needs to get over it, but putting a crown in a rod is probably the opposite of what you ever wanna do because you want the water to be able to go one way or another and not crown it, and this is what takes the crown out leaves a nice leveled surface.

So we've added a big brace here to keep this solid, these pieces are really, really rigid here. We've raised this tube up four inches as we've increased the sads four inches in thickness to, what was it, 17 inches? 17 inches of height. So we've raised this up four inches, so when you are cutting a lot you're not running into the stuff wading up on the upper tube, we put in angle brace in here to keep everything good. And I don't know if you can see this or not, but with these rear hangers for your ripper shanks, dirt can get packed in here and so forth from behind here, so we even put a hole right here to let the dirt silt and so forth come out of there so it doesn't pack up. So it still makes it easy to move your blades up and down. Pretty much this has been a great seller for us, we sell a lot of them and it hadn't done anything but gotten better. So give us a call or an email and we'll make sure that you get the right one for your application.