Hi. I'm Ted, from Everything Attachments. We're here today with the 72-inch Everything Attachments Tiller. This is a reverse-rotation and a full offset. This is a true offset, it's not to where you can just offset your arms here just a little bit and then you have to let your driveshaft run at an angle, which doesn't hurt as long as you're not over a certain amount. This will let you go from the middle of the tiller, all the way over to the other side, so if you wanted to leave 3 or 4 feet sticking out on one side, you could.
We'll start down here, underneath; it's kind of hard to see with this flap. The reason this flap's on is because it's reverse-rotation and it's bringing all the material forward. Where a reverse-rotation really excels, is if you've got some really hard ground and you're not going to plow it, which I always recommend plowing, but if you're not going to plow it, a reverse-tine tiller will definitely go deeper and it's more aggressive. Where it really excels is when you've got a crop on top of the ground, such as sod. When grass looks like it's no big deal, but when you go to till it, will make a tiller chatter and so forth. If you're coming from underneath to get the roots before you try to go through the top, it's going to do a lot better. If you're going to use it for landscaping and things like that, a reverse-tine tiller is definitely what you want to buy.
Underneath here, you've got 6 blades per flange. This complete assembly unbolts just like on a Sigma tiller. As you can see on the side, you've got your 5 bolts over there; huge bearing flanges. These are meant to run 24 hours a day. Where these are built for us, they use these tillers 18 hours a day at full commercial use. These actually have the same type of gears that a car would have in it, a spherical gear, not straight-cut gears. On this particular model, it has a chain on the side. A lot of people think you need a gear on the side, we offer both. I've never had a failure out of a chain, so I'm really a big fan of a chain. We do have both. What gears don't like is chatter. For instance, when you're doing sod and have a forward-tine tiller, when your tiller starts jumping around and chattering, those gears are in there going like that; gears just don't like that. Chains have no problem with that, so I really don't care if I get a gear tiller or a chain tiller, providing my gear tiller has big enough gears in the side to take the chattering. With the Sigma and so forth, it does have really big gears in it, so it's no problem. The gears that we have also are the same size.
On a true offset tiller, you're able to unloosen these U-bolts, unloosen these 2 U-bolts, and 2 bolts on the back. You can see this is a 6-sided hexagon-shaped shaft, just like what's on our heavy McMillen augers. This is a 6-sided insert that goes all the way through this gearbox. You're able to take this center piece and move it all the way over to here, and then move your adjustable clevises all the way over, giving you a true full offset. If you've got to offset for some reason, this is the way to do it. Turn this around over here to the side [inaudible: 04:09].
It's got a really wide skid on it, because a reverse-tine tiller really pulls down into the ground; they'll usually go deeper than their meant to go. You've got your adjustments here for your slide. You've got a really heavy-duty bearing over here on the side, plus an extra cover over it, mainly because this is going to be working deeper than normal. Come on around to the back.
You've got your same chain that's going to control the consistency of your dirt. With the reverse-tine tiller, it has less control over what you're doing. You're going to get more control over your ground speed and your depth of how fine your soil is than you will your tailgate. Your tailgate will help release the material so you can go a little faster, but it's not going to be as much of what is controlling the consistency as a forward-
tine tiller. There's the 2 bolts that you're going to loosen in the back to slide this whole gearbox over. Come on around to this side, Peanut.
Here's your heavy-duty chain housing. Fuel plug right here; that's where you fill it to. You just loosen that up; fill it until it runs out. You've got a drain plug right here. You've got a chain tensioner right here. Read your manual, keep that adjusted. You've got a nice kickstand, where you only take out one pin and flip it up. That makes it easy to hookup. Come on back around.
Let me go back to the driveshaft. On this driveshaft, these are the heaviest driveshafts I've ever seen. There actually a 6-sided shaft, just like what's on the drive of this unit. Really is super-heavy-duty. This clutch weighs a ton, super-heavy. Come around back to the front, Peanut.
On this hitch right here, because you can move these anywhere you like them, it's already got the bushing and everything on it for a Quick Attach. If you want to use an iMatch or regular Speeko Quick Attach, or something, you can certainly set it up to use it for that.
We hope that you're . . . depending on what you're doing; at Everything Attachments we'll be happy to tell you whether you need a forward or reverse rotation, what width fits your tractor. Probably the most misleading thing on all of the literature of tillers is the horsepower requirement. They really have no way around it, as long as they're going to put something down. Depending on the size of your tractor, what you're doing with it, the type of ground you have, how much of it you have to do; just everything, there's so many factors, and they kind of give you a middle range of from what-to-what, but they can be really far off. Depending on what you're doing, what you're doing it with, give us a call at Everything Attachments, and we'll make sure that you get the right tiller for the job you're doing.
